The Laurence King Editions publish "The Book of Skulls," a book exclusively dedicated to the religious symbol that is the skull.

Faye Dowling had the will to gather some sort of directory of skulls and she managed to gather skulls from all backgrounds: from the jewels of Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen to the work of Damien Hirst.

Forgotten and then reused, the skull has a full role in our daily lives sometimes failing to lose its original meaning and initial symbolicism. But its visual power and beauty are timeless, and that's what the book intends to sublimate presenting 164 works by artists as diverse as  Wes Lang, James Hopkins, Alan Kane or Stephanie Henderson.

Vivienne Westwood - Do It Yourself documentary by ARTE

Arte Editions expands its range of documentaries about fashion, with a sweet portrait of Lady Vivienne Westwood, filmed between 2009 and 2010 - in London and Paris by filmakers Jean-Marie Sztalryd and Letmina Sztalryd. The 58-minute documentary explores the close relationship with her husband Andreas Kronthaler, as well as her activist philosophy. In fact one of the best moments of the film is said to her introduction to her manifesto "Active Resistance to Propaganda". According to Westwood culture and art are the best antidote to propaganda.  I AGREE.

If you happen to have a copy, would you be able to send me one please?

Thanks.

Quote of the week: Vivienne Westwood on Kate Middleton

"I would have loved to have dressed Kate Middleton but I have to wait until she kind of catches up a bit somewhere with style." 

History of Fashion: round 2 at the Musée des Arts décoratifs, in Paris

On the 10th October 2010, the exhibition "Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine vol 1: 70 - 80" at the Musée des Arts décoratifs in Paris closed its doors. Last week opened the second round and it focuses on fashion from 1990 to the years 2000.

It all started with Olivier's Saillard's (fashion historian and expert) book entitled "Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine". This amazingly rich book draws on 30 years of fashion innovations and moments that have changed the way we think fashion. From this book, two shows were born. The first one featured wardrobes from the 70’s and 80's and this second round rather emphasises the changes of fashion from 90's to the 2000's. 

But the main difference between the book and this show is that, it doesn't follow a chronological order but rather regroups fashion designers according to their influences and style. From independent minimalism to the “Japanese and British schools”, from the position of businessman-designer to the contemporary or performance artist, Bernadette Caille, the second curator of the exhibition, and Olivier Saillard reveal that fashion in itself doesn't exist. They have rather intelligently regrouped fashion designers according to their common styles or influences. 

Martin Margiela

The show opens with one of the biggest innovative schools of the 2000's, the Belgian designers, a group which includes: the mysterious Martin Margiela (one remembers the exhibition which took place at Somerset House in London - see my post: http://artisnotdead.blogspot.com/2010/06/maison-martin-margiela-20-exhibition.html), Veronique Branquinho, Ann Demeulemeester, Veronique Leroy, Dries Van Noten. Facing this section is "the Japanese school" featuring: Yohji Yamamoto, Comme des garçons, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe.

 John Galliano for Dior

The first floor of the exhibition showcases fashion designers who go beyond fashion and act more as performance artists or contemporary artists. I am a huge fan of these designers mostly because they are advocate of innovation. I am referring to Hussein Chalayan, Alexander McQueen and Viktor&Rolf. 

Later, a window dedicated to John Galliano for Dior and his own brand, expresses the fact that fashion is also about techniques, craft, and savoir-faire.  It also highlights that fashion becomes intertwined with super powerful luxury groups which recalls the earlier amazing white, sexy Gucci dress by Tom Ford, the archetype of the designer slash business man, presented alongside D&G's bustier once worn by superstar, Madonna.Vivienne Westwood is highly praised as well with her own window.

Vivienne Westwood

Karl Lagerfeld, Christian Lacroix and Jean-Paul Gaultier have all in common their mastering of Haute Couture. Amongst the beautiful outfits of the each window of this room, the parrots inspired outfit by JPG, or the blouse inspired by Coco Chanel's screen (originally located in her flat Rue Cambon), by Karl Lagerfeld, reveal that these designers are the only ones reaching fashion excellence.

Karl Lagerfeld for Chanel

At this stage, we've already reached the climax of the exhibition but cleverly, it ends with two windows dedicated to Nicolas Ghesquiere from Balenciaga and Alber Elbaz from Lanvin which highlight the best examples of regeneration of sleeping fashion houses. Both designers are now famous for reviving Balenciaga and Lanvin. This process seems fruitful for big luxury groups such as PPR or LVMH but the work of these designers should rather be interpreted as luxury laboratories. I wonder whether the same magic will happen to Madeleine Vionnet.

Nicolas Ghesquiere for Balenciaga

Christian Lacroix

With fashion coming from Japan or Belgium, international fashion designers working for French brands, it is interesting to note that geography might have an influence on fashion. It also recalls that France is no longer the centre for fashion creativity: cities like New York, London or Sao Paulo might be the fashion centres today. I personally think that Paris is late and as Anna Wintour suggested a few months ago (highlighted by Loic Prigent in its documentary), Paris should favour younger designers, but that’s another question... maybe the next round of these exhibitions.

 Jean-Paul Gaultier 

This exhibition has been sponsored by Reebok

More info on: www.lesartsdecoratifs.fr

Vivienne Westwood's wallpapers

Vivienne Westwood has created a wallpaper collection with Cole & Son. The bold prints are pulled from Vivienne's collections across the years, going as far back as her 1981/1982 Pirate collection that featured the Squiggle pattern.

Westwood commented on her exploration of interior design:"It is good when my ideas get carried over into other artistic media. This collection is a perfect opportunity to be able to work with a heritage company like Cole & Son and to see my ideas from fashion translated into the world of interiors and wallpaper."

More info on: http://www.viviennewestwood.com/

Vivienne Westwood will be back on London's catwalk

Wonderfully creative Vivienne Westwood has just announced that she will be back on London's catwalks. After being away for 9 years, the most UK - Sex Pistols' fashion designer will showcase her new autumn-winter 2008-2009 Red Label collection in London.

Launched in 1994, Red Label is a mix of design inspired by Savile Row and French haute-couture. Different from Anglomania, another line by Westwood, Red Label is said to be more sexy and elegant. Vivienne Westwood explains that the success the brand encounters in the UK makes her want to explore it evenmore. Hence the need for a "specific show" taking place during the London Fashion Week : 10 - 15 of February 2008.

The main line entitled Gold Label will be presented in Paris as usual during the fashion week : 24-02 March 2008.

To learn more: http://www.viviennewestwood.com/

VIVIENNE WESTWOOD RETROSPECTIVE HELD IN MILAN

35 years of eccentricity and underground fashion. A big retrospective dedicated to Vivienne Westwood opened during the Milan fashion week in Palazzo Reale.


The Palazzo Reale in Milan was the perfect craddle to welcome the Scottish kilts, the Sex Pistols tees, or the metal chain's dresses displayed in the show until January 20, 2008.
The exhibition "35 years Vivienne Westwood fashion" opens with a black shirt designed in leather, showing small bones connected by metal chains. The tone is set.
Everything became when she was helping her boyfriend of the time, Malcom McLaren, manager of the Sex Pistols, designing clothes for Johnny Rotten and the musicians of the group.
She then moved to a store on King's Road in London, which quickly became legendary.


Today, there are 150 creations are displayed in a very a rock'n roll way. Queen of provocation, her first fashion show was shown in 1981 and entitled "Pirate," a subtle blend of sensuality and eccentricity. At 66 years, she is still on the frontrow. She presented her latest collection on 1 October 2008 in Paris. Marilyn Manson and Dita Von Teese rank among the various role models that have been featured in her add campaigns... still rock'n'roll !

More info on:
http://www.viviennewestwood.com/
http://www.arthemisia.it/